The secret to great retention

Great retention is the responsibility of both client and Lash Artist.

If you are struggling with making your lashes last, it is often times multi factorial. But in most cases, the common reason for poor retention is a lack of proper lash cleansing. With that being said, it is also the responsibility of the lash artist to ensure they are practicing the correct protocols, technique, and using the best products. You cannot have one without the other. This is why good lash retention is a 50/50 effort on both client and artist. Below, is a list of things to go over as the client, and as the artist.

CLIENT:

-Are you washing your lashes everyday? If so, are you washing them correctly? Yes, there is a right and wrong way to wash your lashes. To ensure a thorough cleanse, you must wash the entire eyelid and lash line. This includes, going in a side to side motion, and underneath. The lash soap should create suds and not dissolve away as soon as it touches your lid. If the soap does dissolve, this means you need to double cleanse and/or apply more soap. Make sure you are rinsing the soap off completely as well. Please keep in mind that if you have oily skin, you may need to up your lash washing to morning and night. This may seem excessive, but it will make a huge difference in your retention. Get into the habit and learn to enjoy the feeling of clean lashes!

-While your lash artist will recommend you stay away from oily facial products, it is almost impossible to do that. Instead, what I suggest is being very mindful about the amount of product you put near your lashes. Don't ever put product on the eyelid itself, and remember to wash your lashes more often than you would normally if you choose to wear facial products. For example, say you are doing your nightly routine and you just finished washing your face and lashes. You then put on some moisturizer and under eye serum right before bed. To ensure good lash retention, make sure to wash your lashes the next morning and even consider double cleansing. When we sleep, not only do we still sweat and produce oils, but our skin acts as a sponge and all those products, no matter how far away from the lash line they may be at the time of application, they will soak up in you skin and make its way to you lashes, therefore causing the glue bond to be weakened.

-When having lash extensions, you may still wear makeup! Within reason that is. We all know the obvious "no-no's" like not putting mascara on your extensions, wearing eyeliner, sticky or glittery eyeshadow, etc. While those products are not allowed, you may still wear foundation, concealer, minimal eyeshadow, and bottom mascara. However, the rule is that you MUST wash off all makeup thoroughly and then wash your lashes at the end of each day. Not doing so can be so detrimental to not just your lash retention, but your lash health. Bottom mascara, eyeshadow and foundation will mix and melt together with your sweat and oils while you sleep causing a buildup that you may not be able to see, but your lash artist definitely will. And that buildup is a dream mating ground for lash mites!

-Be mindful of touching your lashes. You have to remember that your hands have oils too! And oils equal poor retention. If ever you feel the need to touch your lashes or get an itch, pull out your lash brush and give them a good brush. Or better yet, go wash them! Try to get into the habit of washing your lashes after sweating, swimming, crying, or being out in a dusty or dirty environment. When in doubt, wash wash wash your lashes!

LASH ARTIST:

-Ask yourself if you are doing the proper protocols to ensure your clients lashes are off to a great start with their retention. This includes washing the clients lashes right before their lash service. If a client shows up with makeup on, do not hesitate to pull out a makeup wipe and wipe around their eyes followed by a lash bath. If a client objects to you doing this, it is your right to refuse to perform the service. Explain to your client that you take pride in your work and that ethically you must follow all procedures to ensure the finished result will be up to your standard. Remember that this is your business and reputation. Always use good judgment and have integrity. A few other things to make sure you incorporate into the service is a primer and bonder. Having a clean base will ensure a seamless bond.

-Correct application is crucial to not only your clients retention, but also their lash health. Make absolute certain that you are isolating every lash and checking for stickies before they leave your table. While these factors are basic knowledge, also be mindful of the polymerization process. If you have a .5 or 1 second dry time on your glue, be sure that you are attaching the extension as fast as possible. Forgetting to isolate before dipping into the glue, can result in the glue curing before it is attached to the natural lash. This is a recipe for poor retention and cause for failure to administer the wrapping technique. Other factors to keep in mind that often get over looked is the room humidity and changing out your glue dot periodically. While these things seem small, they all play a part in you clients retention.

-While the topic of pre-made verses hand-made fans is very controversial within the lash community, it does play a part in lash retention. Pre-made also known as "pro-made" fans may seem like an easy quick way to offer volume lashes, however, not all clients are a good candidate for pre made lashes. Due to their flat crystalized bases, retention is significantly worse compared to using hand made fans. The bases of these fans cannot wrap around the natural lash causing them to pop off pretty fast. Furthermore, the bases are also more bulky and tend to "tangle." This tangling of the lashes causes a very uncomfortable lash line for your clients and damage to their natural lashes. There is also added weight to your clients natural lashes because the fans already have a hardened glued base, and then you add additional glue to secure the placement. Use your best judgment and always put your clients lash health first.